If you have ever wondered why some cashmere sweaters last for years while others start pilling within weeks — the answer comes down to one thing: cashmere quality grade.
Most cashmere products carry the same "100% cashmere" label regardless of their actual quality. But underneath that label, the fiber can range from ultra-fine luxury grade to cheap commercial grade that deteriorates fast and disappoints faster.
Whether you are a consumer buying your first cashmere piece or a buyer sourcing knitwear for your brand, understanding cashmere grades will save you from making expensive mistakes.
What Is Cashmere and Why Does Quality Vary?
Cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat — combed once a year, in small quantities. A single goat produces just 150 to 200 grams of usable fiber per year, which is why genuine cashmere commands a premium price.
But not all cashmere goats produce the same quality fiber. Altitude, climate, breed, and region all affect how fine the fiber is — and fineness is everything when it comes to cashmere quality.
The Key Number: Micron Count
Cashmere fiber quality is measured in microns — the diameter of each individual fiber strand. The finer the fiber, the softer the feel, the better the quality, and the higher the price.
Here is a simple breakdown:
14 to 16 microns — luxury grade. Exceptionally soft. This is what genuine premium cashmere feels like.
16 to 19 microns — premium grade. Very soft and durable. Good quality retail cashmere.
19 to 22 microns — standard grade. Decent initially but noticeable deterioration over time.
22 to 30 microns — lower grade. Feels rough against sensitive skin. Pills heavily.
The human itch threshold sits around 21 to 22 microns. Cashmere above this point is what causes that scratchy feeling around the neck that makes you want to take a sweater off after an hour of wearing it.
Cashmere Grades A, B, and C Explained
Grade A Cashmere — 14 to 16 Microns
The finest commercially available cashmere. The softness is immediate and lasting — it does not wash out or fade with wear. Grade A is what genuine luxury knitwear brands use and what justifies retail prices above $200.
It pills far less than lower grade fiber, holds its shape through repeated wearing, and maintains its hand feel for years with proper care.
Grade B Cashmere — 16 to 19 Microns
Very good quality cashmere at a more accessible price point. Genuinely soft and warm, durable when well-made. Most quality mid-market cashmere falls into this grade.
A good choice for brands developing knitwear at $100 to $250 retail where Grade A cost is not justified by the price point.
Grade C Cashmere — 19 to 30 Microns
This is the grade behind most cheap cashmere products on the market — and it is almost always chemically softened during processing to simulate the feel of finer fiber in the store. That softening wears off after washing, leaving the garment feeling noticeably coarser.
Heavy pilling, shape loss, and rapid quality deterioration are the hallmarks of Grade C cashmere in use. If a cashmere product feels surprisingly soft for its price, chemical softening treatment is usually the explanation.
Nepal's Chyangra Pashmina: A Grade A Standard With Certified Origin
Nepal occupies a special position in the global cashmere market because of Chyangra pashmina — fiber sourced from Himalayan Chyangra goats grazing above 3,000 metres altitude in Nepal's high mountain regions.
The extreme cold at these altitudes produces an undercoat that consistently measures 14 to 16 microns — firmly Grade A, and among the finest cashmere fiber available anywhere in the world.
Chyangra pashmina is certified by Nepal's Pashmina Industry Promotion Committee and carries a hologram label that buyers can verify. It is not a marketing story — it is a documented fiber specification with traceable Himalayan origin.
At Diamond Knitland, our knitwear production uses Chyangra pashmina as the foundation for our finest cashmere products. The 14 to 16 micron specification is verifiable through third-party fiber testing and documented at the yarn stage.
How Grade Affects the Real-World Product
Pilling — Grade A cashmere with long staple fiber pills very little. Grade C cashmere with short staple fiber pills heavily from the first few wears. This single factor accounts for most customer complaints about cheap cashmere.
Softness Over Time — Grade A maintains its hand feel through years of proper care. Grade C loses its chemical softening treatment quickly, leaving the garment noticeably ordinary after a few washes.
Shape Retention — Grade A garments hold their shape. Grade C garments stretch and distort at the neckline and cuffs relatively quickly.
Warmth to Weight Ratio — Grade A's finer fiber traps air more efficiently, delivering excellent warmth at a very low weight. A feather-light Grade A sweater can outperform a much heavier Grade C garment for insulation.
Quick Reference: Cashmere Grades at a Glance
Grade A — 14 to 16 microns — Luxury — Best for premium retail $200+
Grade B — 16 to 19 microns — Premium — Best for quality retail $100 to $250
Grade C — 19 to 30 microns — Commercial — Budget segment only
Chyangra Pashmina — 14 to 16 microns — Certified Himalayan luxury — Premium and ultra-luxury retail
Sourcing the Right Grade for Your Brand
If you are sourcing cashmere for a retail range or private label collection, always request a fiber test certificate from your manufacturer showing micron count and staple length. Do not rely on labels alone.
Evaluate physical samples against the inside of your wrist — Grade A cashmere should feel immediately and unmistakably soft with no prickling sensation. Hand wash the sample before approving bulk production and evaluate pilling behavior and shape retention post-wash.
At Diamond Knitland, we work with wholesale buyers and private label brands across the US, UK, Germany, France, Italy, and worldwide, supplying verified Grade A Chyangra cashmere knitwear with full fiber documentation.
MOQ from 10 pieces per style. Sampling cost refunded on bulk order conversion.
📧 biju@diamondknitland.com
📞 +977 9851024416
🌐 diamondknitland.com
This post was originally published on the Diamond Knitland blog. Diamond Knitland is a Kathmandu-based knitwear manufacturer specialising in cashmere, pashmina, yak wool, wool, and bamboo knitwear for wholesale and private label buyers worldwide.
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